Crystal Serenity's debut: More of a good thing

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Natural light streamed through floor-to-ceiling windows, while six hexagonal skylights provided additional light. I instantly liked the Palm Court, located high up on Deck 12 of the Crystal Serenity.

I liked its rattan furnishings, which were arranged in cozy groupings on two levels. It's a roomy setting, providing an ideal location for the captain's welcome party and a delightful venue for the best-served afternoon tea I've experienced in my years of cruising.

This was the Crystal Serenity's inaugural, and despite the line's concern that some unfinished work would compromise its high standards, I had no complaints.

Few of my fellow passengers voiced any complaints, either. We were notified before boarding that this sailing was free, Crystal's way of apologizing in advance to its best customers.

Room at sea

That made for a happy mood when the Serenity set sail from Southampton, England, on its seven-day -- and nearly flawless -- voyage.

The line's first ship in eight years, the Crystal Serenity is larger than its two sister ships, the Crystal Harmony and the Crystal Symphony. The Serenity's size led Crystal executives to resolve the tricky balance of keeping the onboard experience the same while updating the product and spreading it out over 36% more space.

Most of the passengers onboard were Crystal Society members, loyal guests who were well equipped to compare this ship with the line's other vessels.

One Crystal Society passenger remarked, "Just about everything feels familiar, but there is more of it."

More space, for instance, on the deck surrounding the lido, in the public-room corridors, under heightened ceilings, in the oval atrium and on the widest open promenade I have ever seen on a ship.

On some vessels, I dread the lido lunch line, but no such queues formed on this ship. There are a half-dozen stations to patronize and ample staff to assist.

It may sound a bit trite, but passengers greeted familiar staff -- two-thirds are veterans -- as long-lost friends.

The great majority of cabin accommodations are larger than on other Crystal ships, with the 286 A & B categories measuring 269 square feet compared with 246 square feet on Crystal's other ships.

A new category, AA, offers butler service plus complimentary wine and spirits upon embarkation.

We occupied the PH category, one of the ship's 64 penthouses that also come with butler service.

Here's how attentive the service was:

The butler would appear at the end of each day to see if we wanted a snack of hors d'oeuvres.

At other times, he'd leave a tempting plate of foie gras, smoked ham or finger sandwiches in the cabin.

Dressing for the first formal night, my red bow tie lost its clasp. In the space of 10 minutes, the butler had taken it to the tailor and brought it back repaired.

On the mornings I requested it, breakfast appeared right on time, rolled in on a table then set up on the pop-up coffee table.

The room's entertainment center, housed in a mahogany cabinet, included a flat-screen TV and a DVD player; the bathroom had a full Jacuzzi bath, separate shower and twin sinks in a marble counter.

The walk-in closet had plenty of hanging space, and with the additional drawers in the bedroom, this penthouse had ample storage.

One complaint: The night table was wedged between two beds with large, puffy spreads, making it a tight squeeze and difficult to open the drawers.

The balcony's plastic chairs and table also disappointed, but guests can ask for chaise lounges.

All cabin accommodations are outside, as with the Symphony, but here the lifeboats do not obstruct the views.

Food for thought ...

Evening dining choices include the traditional Crystal Dining Room with two seatings, unique to such a high-end product.

The room buzzed with activity each night we ate there, but was never noisy.

Prego, the Italian specialty restaurant, has a different design on this ship -- the venue nearly is twice as big as its cousins on the Harmony and Symphony and is simpler in decor, lacking the high-backed chairs and formality.

It is a long room, executed in white and gold, with bas-relief urns filled with fruit on the bulkhead pilasters. Instead of paintings on the walls, there are lightboxes depicting Tuscan city scenes that change color depending on the time of day.

Two favorites from the menu were the pumpkin ravioli flavored with apricot and a gorgonzola-topped filet of beef.

On the Serenity, the Asian restaurant called the Silk Road features noted chef and restaurateur Nobuyuki "Nobu" Matsuhisa as the consulting chef -- and on this sailing he was aboard in person -- offering a pan-Asian menu that offered lobster with truffle yuzu sauce, black cod with miso and chicken with teriyaki balsamic.

The airy setting is executed in lime green and soft blue lighting. The Sushi Bar at the entrance is a new offering for Crystal.

For poolside diners, Tastes furnishes attractive table settings next to the Trident pool and under the retractable glass ceiling.

The 8,500-square-foot spa and fitness centers, located high up and aft, are much larger than aboard its sister ships and are arranged with separate entrances and very good soundproofing.

... Thought for food

For the mind, the innovative Crystal Learning Institute offers more than a dozen sign-up courses, such as Yamaha piano instruction, drawing workshops, Spanish lessons, Cleveland Clinic health talks and tai-chi. All classes were fully booked.

"Whatever anyone has an interest in, we think it'd be fun to teach," said Alexandra Don, Crystal's director of onboard services, on an earlier ship tour.

One passenger noted, "The Crystal Learning Center is like an Elderhostel at sea, good for the mind and my social life."

The library of books and DVDs has three bays for curling up in a comfy chair, and the Avenue Saloon, a Crystal trademark, offers a pianist in a clubby setting.

For other entertainment, guests on later sailings will be able to check out full-scale productions in the Galaxy Show Lounge; the Serenity also boasts Crystal's first disco, the Stardust Club.

The Serenity called at Warnemunde, a north German port, and a private train took passengers in comfort to the city.

I much preferred this to the longer bus ride.

Copenhagen, Denmark, was an overnight call, then after two stops in Norway, the ship circumnavigated the British Isles before returning to Southampton.

In the fall, the ship will be positioned in the Mediterranean then move to the Caribbean.

Following a Panama Canal transit, the Serenity will depart Jan. 19 from Los Angeles for a 106-day world cruise, ending in New York.

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